Day 1 Luz - Sagres
Prologue
A couple of months before this year's RTC, someone (I think it was Mike) suggested that it would be nice to attempt it in the reverse direction. We had only done this once before, in 2005, although the concept had been mentioned and rejected last year. Logistics were a concern this year, as we were a large group, originally 17, Terry's van was not available and so it seemed practical for us all to start at the meeting point in Luz, and rely on the attrition rate to reduce the numbers requiring collection from Carrapateira on the second day.
The T- shirts were ordered, proudly setting out our direction of travel.
A couple of weeks before the start date, someone (I think it was Mike) remarked that it was jolly windy from the north, and he wouldn't fancy toiling into the teeth of a gale all the way from Sagres to Carrapateira on the second day.
I am always open to suggestions, and monitored the weather closely on the Internet, until the weekend before it assured me that the winds would veer to the ENE, and so made the executive decision to go with the original plan. As my luck held we had glorious clear weather, cool enough to make it comfortable when on the march, and the winds were quite light and largely north-easterly. It was too late to change the T-shirt anyway!
Day 1 Stats
Total Distance: 26.7 km; Moving Time: 6 hrs 50 min; Total Time: 8 hrs 12 min.; Moving avg.: 3.9 km/hr; Overall Average: 3.2 km/hr; Total Ascent: 1074 m.; Max Elevation: 85 m.
Day 1 Starters
Paul, Myriam, Mike, Rod, Andrew, Lindsey, Ian S. Terry A, David, Chris, Antje, Terry M, Maria, Kevin, Gordon, Andrew Mc. and Maddy and Rosie (until Burgau).
Hilke originally had signed up, but was stricken with a cold a few days before, and scratched as a precaution. Terry M. had emailed at length about his possible withdrawal, but Myriam diagnosed it over the internet as 'man flu', and he manfully recovered in time to start.
And so at around 0745 am, 16 of us plus Maddy and Rosie, set off on a cool but sunny morning along the esplanade leading from Luz to points west. I was up the front, but before long I noticed that we had been joined by a woman and her dog. I at first assumed she was just a morning walker who had tagged on for some company
complete with spaniel and slick tennis shoes. Soon
after Salema, she was struggling, despite the encouragement of Ian S. in the rear, and had to be shown a red card!
I had been dissatisfied with the route through Burgau the previous year as the party had split with some opting to take to the tarmac early in the race for Kelly's Bar, because of the new building. Myriam and I reccied the link and found a nice new path along the narrow streets which led us out on to the cliff early. David had to meet Dinah and hand over Rosie in Burgau, as she is still a trainee, and with Terry for company managed to avoid the first hill.
It was nice to wind through the old part of the village and we were rewarded with some nice sea views from the terraces.
Further along after Burgau, we made a rare sighting of a polar bear - which goes against the current theories of Global Warming!!
Just past Barrancao, we found that the owner of the guest house had made an even more determined effort to block the cliff path, and we took the alternative down his fence and though the front part of the property.
A little further on we came to the Fortaleza and posed for the traditional photo on the wall, which was taken by Kathy with several of our cameras, causing not a little muttering in the ranks, in view of the time required to sit still!
A short climb up the other side of the beach, through the security gate, and we neared the top of Gordon's Gully. Again I had reccied the descent, to avoid any incidents, and though this was an option (another path available along the cliff, down to a road at the top of Salema), most, especially Gordon himself) enjoyed the route down.
A short walk along the beach and we were ready for 'elevenses' in Café Solmar, although it was only just 1030 am.
At some stage in Salema we were joined by a small stray dog, which set an example of behaviour which could be emulated by our more regular companions. She kept quiet, stayed near the front and never got under anyone's feet! Moreover she didn't beg when later on the sandwiches were produced.
The next section was the famous 'wall of death' a good but vertigo inducing path round the cliffs.
A very steep descent led finally to Praia do Forno where it was time for lunch. There was a strong wind whipping down the valley from the north, so it was nice to have the 'ovens' to shelter and sunbathe!
Note the 'claret' on her jerkin! Mike and Ian were quite jealous!
A short and pretty transition up the cliff edge over to Ingrina, and we were almost there, except for the descent to Barranco, and the climb to the plateau of Peniche.
I was temporarily delayed by an international geocaching phone call from two Dutch geocachers who needed some coordinates, so dropped behind, and David led the group down the steep way. Having lost sight of them I followed my track from last year on the GPS and found I was there before them. Of course they claimed they had been waiting for me, but my route was definitely easier!
The credit crunch doesn't appear to have reached Sagres yet, as there was a lot of building going on as can be seen by the cranes in the above picture.
Just over 8 hours after the start we were able to sit down out of the wind in Café Baia, where there was enough cold beer to restore our lost body fluids.
Myriam modelled the RTC T-shirt while the rest got stuck in, and were not really as gloomy as they look!!
The Evening -refuelling!
Nearly everyone gathered at the Pousada bar - a doubt was raised over Ian S. when he failed to be first to the bar, and didn't show until almost time to move on to Vila Velha. He professed to have fallen asleep, but this unusual excuse made the more observant suspect that he was carrying an old rugby injury.
With the precision of a military operation the assembled throng limped over to Vila Velha to a warm welcome from Lia and her staff, and a very pleasant evening.
A selection of diners
Before the dessert, Rod made a short speech of thanks and encouragement to those continuing onward in the morning.
The food, as usual was agreed to have been
excellent, and the wine certainly flowed well. Andrew M. had obviously
been sitting too close to the fire!!
Day 2: Sagres to Carrapateira
There was a good turnout for breakfast, only Danielle having returned to bed after the early morning rendezvous at the luggage vehicles. Ian S. had made the decision to cede his place as Tail End Charlie, citing the after effects of a scrum in the under 15's, which he claimed Gordon knew something about.
As you can imagine, Maddy wasn't exactly keen on the idea of losing her walk, and her eyes showed it as she looked towards the walkers while restrained!
The photo was taken with Andrew showing immense understanding of the technology, and the result was this - one of a selection of 5 auto timer pix., none of which had everyone present and looking at the camera!
Day 2 Stats
Total Distance: 28.8 km; Moving time: 6 hrs 38 min.; Total Time: 7 hrs 54 min.; Moving Avg.: 4.3 km/hr;
Overall Avg.: 3.6 km/hr: Total Ascent: 621 m.; max Elevation: 160 m.
And so we set off through the outskirts of Sagres towards the Torre de Aspe which was the first stop.
Our extra canine companion, who did the whole walk with us from Salema was lucky that Dinah had some spare dog food with her, as she really deserved a good feed after her efforts.
Unfortunately, no one was willing or able to adopt this lovely little dog, so she may well still be In Carrapateira.
Perhaps she will join us next year!
I had a large number of photos sent in to add to the ones that Myriam and I took, and I have put some of the best ones up on the web unsorted but available to view HERE
"Forgive me my nonsense as I also forgive the nonsense of those who think they can talk sense." - Frost, Robert
This, then, is the test we must set for ourselves; not to march alone but to march in such a way that others will wish to join us. Humphrey, Hubert H.
Owing to our absence on a visit to Macao and Hong Kong shortly after the RTC 2007 finished, I had barely time to cobble together the post below on the 2007 Event. The Photo Competition was therefore administered by the magic of the Interweb between the Chief Judge, Alex, and myself on a borrowed computer in Macao.
I had the foresight to load all the contestants in the three categories on to the Flickr site, and Alex perused them online at his leisure and made his deliberations. Obviously to avoid any bias or fixing, I had to load the photos in random order and delete anything but the captions that could lead to identification of the photographer.
There were three categories selected before the walk even started, and these were:
Athleticism/Spirit of the RTC;
Sartorial Elegance;
Best use of Foliage;
The intention was to give the entrants encouragement to shoot on a theme, rather than point, click and hope for a good one! However, I had a feeling that this proved too much for some potential photographers, and with other notable paparazzi being away, in the end only myself, Myriam, Dinah, Andrew, Lindsey and Terry entered photos.
So eventually, at the Christmas Lunch, Alex stood up and delivered his judgement. Embarrassingly, he had omitted to bring a slide show of the field to display, and I was unable to assist from my position at the lunch buffet in the Peninsula Hotel on the day in question!
At last I have got round to posting the winning entries, and here they are, in order and fully captioned:
Overall Winner
Category 1: Athleticism/Spirit
Category 2: Sartorial Elegance
Category 3: Foliage.
Well that was the art for this occasion. There were 47 photos entered by the 5 top photographers, and the prizes were bottles of fine wines and fortified spirits from Wine Mine (paid - not donated!!) In addition as prize for the overall winner, Alex printed, mounted and framed the winning shot for Myriam, and it graces our sideboard right now.
Thanks to Alex for his critical acumen in selecting the winners, and for those who entered. As it was the second year of the competition, and it has shown that not always the best camera wins, I hope there will be more entries and competition next time.
DAY 1 - 29th November 2007
Having laboured last year to arrange all the previous years' adventures in a readable and logical order, I find that this year's Odyssey has to appear just before the 2002 saga. Tant pis as Yves would say!
(NB. All the pictures below can be enlarged for better viewing by clicking on them. You may then have to use your browser 'Back' button to regain the Blog)
PLUS:- Dinah has prepared a slide show of her photos which can be viewed here.
The Day 1 definitive track!
NB. Due to the way this has been uploaded you need to click on the map, and then on a button to the right marked 'view full size' and when that is loaded click on it again to get a clear large map. Then you can see the difference between this year's track (red) and last year's which is under it in blue.
Day 1 Statistics: Total Distance: 28.1 km; Moving Time: 6 hrs 10 minutes; Total Time: 7 hrs 15 minutes;
Moving Average Speed: 4.5 km/hr; Overall Average Speed: 3.8 km/hr;
Total Ascent: 663 metres; Max Elevation: 169 metres
The "training walks" round the Forest on 14th November (link) and in the muddy wilderness near Covões on the 21st (link) had taken their toll and the original 15 volunteers were reduced to 12 at the start, Lindsey, Mick and Sylvia having succumbed to various ailments. Rod was nearly a casualty having suffered shin splints after the 14th, and head butted his horse, coming off second best in the same week, but he rallied and proved he was still 'the right stuff'! David had managed to weather a cold after Covões, and aggravation from his neighbour to enter with a provisional start - but maybe only one day!! My ankle had suffered from the training and was strapped both physically and chemically, and Antje had received advice from a surgeon on a trip to Germany, that she needed a knee operation. She bravely started however, and I think I can claim some credit for pointing out that asking a surgeon if she needed an operation was rather similar to asking Ian if he needed a beer!
And so we met just before 0700hrs on a dark chilly morning at the car park at Luz. The optimistic flashes of cameras here produced nothing of note, so the 12 willing walkers and 5 bag ladies plus Lindsey distributed themselves among the cars and we set off for Carrapateira. The regular Chief bag lady, Jyll was away on grandmothering duties, and Terry and Jill A. were unfortunately unable to participate this year.
The weather forecasts for these two days promised cool sunny weather, with minimum wind, and so it proved being in my opinion, the most ideal walking conditions we had ever had.
Some ground frost was visible in the valley and on a fallen agave as we headed up to Praia d'Amado, but it was soon time to shed some outer layers as the sun rose inexorably..
The first small scramble down of the day had suffered from heavy weathering since last year and required a little care, and good pole technique!
The surface was reasonable for climbing and descending, but still a little damp in the shadows. Soon we reached the sunny outcrop for an impressive group photo. I was a shadow of my former self
No navigational errors this year and the group were fairly cohesive, and we reached the beginning of the long beach that joins Cordoama and Castelejo at low tide. calculations had been impeccable, and the light and the air were very atmospheric, as we marched towards the closed coffee shop where Myriam had thoughtfully arrived with the ladies and a couple of flasks of most welcome coffee.
However, Mike, having been his usual dynamic self on the 4 climbs, somehow managed to tweak a sinew (I hesitate to use the word 'muscle') after the descent to the beach, and while he was on flat ground. This did slow his progress, and he decided to drop out after limping along the beach, and although disappointed he did manage to console himself later with a lunch at Ingrina with the ladies, while the 11 remaining continued their toil.
The next climb after coffee was to the 'lunch spot' at the Coastguard House, - a formidable climb. David and Andrew decided 'machismo' was the best approach, and went for Route 1, but the consensus was that the Middle Way was more 'walker-friendly', though longer and I led the remaining eight up the initially steep ascent which revealed amazing views as we turned to catch our breath.
Eventually we all arrived at the Coastguard House, where lunch was declared, and we fell ravenously on our smoked salmon on seeded rye rolls, or bags of nuts and dried apricots. After I managed to work out how to use the self-timer function on the camera, and with the assistance of a convenient wall recorded a snap of the remaining 11.
From here it was a short flat stroll to the Torre de Aspa, that wonderfully sited obelisk that can be seen from much of the route. Indeed on the second day as we reached the crests we could glance NW and see the Torre looking all too near in the crystal clear air.
The remainder of the walk was uneventful and was on good paths, mainly flat, which was just how a long walk should end. All the views had been in the first half, but we could see the Navigator Hotel ahead and the end was in sight!. We followed the path through the pine forest and along a river bed, which was particularly picturesque and moved swiftly building up the average speed for the stage. We arrived at Pastelaria Baia at just before 3 pm, giving plenty of time to relax in our individual ways before the evening's festivities started.
The group sat in the sun at the corner of the street, as it was becoming cooler already. Myriam arranged for Dona Maria José, the owner of Pastelaria Baia to join us outside for a group photo, which we will enlarge and print for her, and her husband Emmanuel, who was unaccountably absent at that time.
Gradually people drifted back to the Hotel, until the hard core still at the bar were joined by Mick, who had rallied sufficiently to join the post-walk drinks and the dinner later. Sylvia was still suffering, so had stayed at home. Mike P. was exhausted from his lunch with the ladies and did not make it to Baia.
The evening
The arrangements were to meet in the Pousada bar for preprandial drinks at 6pm. Here we were joined by Hedley who is over on a short visit and had declared himself 'hors de combat' for walking purposes. While it is a nice space and a comfortable venue, there were rather a lot of dark mutterings about the prices which seem to have gone up rather a lot. Perhaps we will need to seek another place if we go again, although the 'Lounge Leopards' fitted in very well!
Towards the end of the meal, a presentation was made to Ian S. who, to be fair, had not enjoyed a season devoid of controversy to date. A large Wooden Spoon - The Wednesday Wanger (Marguerite thought that was a spelling mistake!) had been carefully and artistically inscribed by Dinah, at the instigation and with the collaboration of Others Unknown, and this was presented to Ian by Rod, who was at great pains to emphasise that this was a 'one-off' award and would not be competed for every year!!
The Outstanding Senior Moments which prompted the award were enumerated on the shaft, and it was evident that Ian was deeply touched by the presentation, and the acknowledgment of his contribution!
And so the evening drew to a convivial close, as those that remembered (and still cared) about the early start, headed off for a recuperative night's sleep, and some didn't! Our thanks to Lia and the staff at Vila Velha for a splendid evening, and we hope to be back next year.
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Day 2 - 30th November 2007
The usual early start, breakfast at Pastelaria Baia was scheduled for 0700 hrs, and amazingly there were 11 Good Walkers and True presenting front and centre for their chosen belt strainer to start the day. Mike had decided on discretion rather than valour, and was resting his leg (allegedly)! There was some rather cruel banter which inferred that with Jyll's imminent return the next day, there may have been one or two small 'To Do's' left on the list, which had been deferred due to his vigorous geocaching activities during her absence!!
Total Distance: 26.5 km; Moving Time: 6 hrs 52 minutes; Total Time: 8 hrs 5 minutes;
Moving Average: 3.8 km/hr; Overall Average: 3.3 km/hr; Total Ascent: 861 m.; Max Elev: 82 metres.
A quick analysis of the two days stats show that this, indeed appears to be the tougher day, with greater ascent and lesser max elevation, and the average speed reflects this despite the natural 'second day syndrome' where we are understandably less fresh - mainly due to the social side rather than the first day's walk!!
After breakfast, Andrew, with some technical assistance from the CB managed to invoke the time lapse mode on his highly sophisticated new camera, and Emmanuel and Maria José were yet again hustled outside for a group photo, with which we hope to present them for display purposes!! The light was still not really good enough, but we had to get going to catch the tide at Salema and Boca do Rio. Ian managed to appear to have the sun shining out of his shoulder rather than the customary orifice!
The 'Gaudi House' appeared to have sprouted a lot of windmills behind it in the intervening year - and there were still more 'undulations' before Salema, which had definitely been moved much further to the east, as when Rod and I confidently thought we had completed the last ascent before the village, we topped the brow to find two more deep descents in prospect!
We reached Salema to meet the ladies for lunch at Café Solmar, and David was delighted to be reunited with Dinah!
The beach seemed to have been totally rearranged by the spring tides, and we found a large area of seaweed covered rocks to cross instead of the sand of last year. nevertheless, the gully was still intact though some had been washed away since the last recce in September link . Myriam, and Dinah both made the walk along the beach to record the struggle up the Gully.
After we all reached the top safely without the heroics of last year there was Boca de Rio which was rather shallow and muted this year!
There were still a few ups and downs to go, but nothing too severe, and despite one or two personal variations in whether to take the optional hillocks, we arrived in Burgau 'ensemble'!
On the way the tide revealed a giant footprint, which was worthy of note as it had not been witnessed before.
The coastal path which was thankfully fairly flat led us into Luz where the paparazzi were there in numbers to record the Triumphal Entry! But alas - they haven't yet sent me any so I will make do with this - Luz in the background.
However the cameras were flashing in the bar at which we celebrated our journey, and though tired there was a great feeling of satisfaction and thanks that the weather had been so perfect for this event.
He who limps is still walking. (Stanislaw J Lec)
I am finally convinced that this was the second of the series of RTC Walks, for the reason that Rod was not in the starting line-up, owing to an obviously pressing engagement which kept him away until he met us in the vicinity of Torre de Aspa just after lunch. It was also notable for the one and only visit of Neil, my friend who was living in France, and used to be a very strong walker, until golf and lethargy got him!! Also George and Carla, who again were lost from our group since that year because of their commitment to the golf and social scene, turned out for their only attempt at the RTC.
So a group of eight set off from the centre of Carrapateira on 3rd December 2002. Jyll was the only lady in support this year as Myriam was walking. Navigation was entrusted to the acting stand-in Route Consultant, confidently following Rod's advice to "keep the sea on your right"!
Unfortunately tide predictions and planning had not quite reached the stage which saw us in 2006 scurrying along the beaches at Castelejo and the next day at Salema to beat the onrushing sea. This year by the time we arrived at the long beach leading to the climb to the Coastguard House, I deemed it a 'Health and Safety' issue, and took a longer route inland rather than risk the tide. This was all very well, but never having done this bit before, we had to improvise and with a little help from a mobile phone, we contacted Rod, the Official Route Finder who had freed himself from whatever it was, and was marching from Sagres to Aspa with his dogs, Pookie and Purdey.
The above pix, shown twice so that each photographer had his 15 seconds of fame, show the reformed group near the weather station close to Torre de Aspa, after Rod and the dogs had arrived.
Dinner, as usual at Vila Velha, was a jolly affair, although to look at Ian in the left hand picture you might not think so! We imported some glamour in the shape of Jinny and Odete to alleviate the testosterone-charged male-dominated atmosphere of the walk. For some reason, Hedley did not appear for dinner, and nor for the second day. I presume he had only committed to one day and had something else that precluded his staying overnight.
This may well have been the famous "Ian's Beans dinner", but I have no photographic evidence to support this.
As is his wont, Ian had been difficult about the food arrangements, claiming that the 'set dinner' enjoyed by everyone else was not to his refined taste, although he had no such problem with the liquids! Being an equable sort of leader, I had told him that in that case he was on his own, and not only would he have to order his own food, he would not benefit from the economies of scale of the set dinner, and moreover would not have his drinks included on the group account. We were duly served, and Ian stared glumly at an empty plate until Lia emerged from the kitchen, with a can of Baked Beans for him!
She explained it was the best she could do at short notice, and there was much ribaldry. However the joke was on us, as she came out a second time with a huge portion of prawns, and it emerged that Ian had set the whole thing up with Lia beforehand!
The next morning we set off early, but not so bright, as can be seen by the ponchos worn by some walkers, eight in number again without Hedley. We took a fairly standard second day route as I recall, going inland after Salema to avoid the frequent and strenuous climbs at the sea edge.
There was the usual great sense of camaraderie, as is evidenced by these two pix of interested bystanders watching the ladies struggle down a slope! Myriam pioneering the oft-adopted technique of 'rather safe than clean trousers!'
The weather continued to brighten, and at last we reached Kelly's Bar in Luz for the well-deserved Aprés-Walk refreshments.
Photo at Kelly's was courtesy of Jyll, I believe. Regrettably, I have no photos nor details/recollections of the 2001 RTC, and I was rather hoping that someone whose faculties were not as damaged as mine by years in the White Man's Grave of the Far East, would push forward with some reminiscence. Sadly not so far!
A small but beautifully formed field of only five hardy volunteers started the 2003 walk from Carrapateira on 25th November. I have no idea why there were so few other than the usual absences for visiting friends and family, and a lack of confidence in their personal fitness. I know for a fact that Myriam couldn't walk because she had recently had an operation for an injury to her foot arch, and was recovering , but of the other candidates I have no recollection. On this occasion Myriam took care of the baggage and driving to the start.
There was no official start photo at Carrapateira. The first I have is as we began to cross one of the beaches at low tide. The walkers were myself; Rod; Ian S.; Maria and Trevor who was visiting from UK with a view to spending more time in the Algarve.
On this occasion, we all stuck together and there were no variations of route!
Lunch was taken at the now standard venue of Torre de Aspa, and this was one of the few photos I appear in on this walk. By process of elimination, it appears that Ian S. does have some photographic talent! However this next one of Maria reclining on a bank in the pine woods to the north of Sagres was definitely taken by me!
On the social side, there is one shot of the five of us walkers plus Myriam in the Pousada bar, which must have been taken by a barman. Dinner was at the Vila Velha as customary, but there is no record of the meal nor the menu. Another memory I have is that Ian S. apparently had no hot water in his room at the Navigator - whether by misfortune, or having overstayed his welcome at Pastelaria Baia. and I will leave you to guess whose room he turned up at to 'borrow' the shower clad only in a towel!!
The morning of the second day dawned bright, and Myriam took a photo of the famous Five close to the breakfast spot at Pastelearia Baia.
Boca do Rio was fairly low and presented no difficulties in crossing for the climb up to the Forte de Figueira. Ian looks sufficiently warm, but has still not been motivated to shed his 'lucky' pullover and ubiquitous blue scarf.
And eventually we arrived back, tired and happy to Kelly's bar in Luz, where the photo is almost as blurred as my recollection of the walk.
Sad to relate, but Trevor succumbed to a recurrence of his non-Hodgkins Lymphoma within a year of this walk. We miss having him with us every time we return to the course.
The 2004 Expedition was set down for 17th/18th November earlier than ever. We had 11 in the starting line-up, from L-R:- Ian S.: Terry A.: Jill A. (support crew): Ian W.: Mike: Myriam: Paul: Rod: Antje: Lindsey: Chris and Andrew. Nathan was the sole canine walker. Jyll Pease was charged with organising transport and baggage, along with Jill A. From the look of this picture, it was a fairly brisk early morning, but the whole two days proved to be sunny and perfect for walking. We started from Carrapateira and were soon enjoying the coastal views.
This year there were no tide miscalculations or delays, and we sped across the beach to Castelejo in good spirits, and we also made the detour to the Coastguard House.
Oddly, I do not seem to have any pictures of the traditional post walk beer in Pastelaria Baia nor of the dinner at Vila Velha that evening. I doubt that this was because I was concerned about offending sensibilities, or blackening (enhancing) reputations, but it may have been because Myriam walked off with the camera on her traditional early return to the Hotel, or because the battery was flat, or maybe just apathy!
The second day dawned bright and clear. No record of the breakfast, of which I am sure we all partook. The traditional photo on the steps beside the deserted Quinta reveals that Antje had declined a second day of punishment, and that we had been joined for the day by a couple from Luz, whose names I can't remember, and whom I don't recall ever walking with us thereafter.
This year we managed to select the correct route down to Praia do Fornos, and were soon waiting at the top with the 'Gaudi House' in the background as ever.
Before long (or so it seems from this distance) a happy group were sitting atop the ruins of Forte de Figueira, and a short while thereafter picking their way carefully round the outflow at Boca do Rio.
Sadly, there were very few photos taken by me this particular year, and none at all of the social side and our triumphant arrival at Praia de Luz. I did however find, and couldn't resist inserting this photo of a handsome and fit-looking couple on the wall at Forte de Almadena!!
Funny how the same 'classic' shots turn up year after year. The wall at Forte de Almadena is a favourite. We didn't have so much trouble crossing Boca de Rio as there had been little rain, and some helpful tourists had been building stepping stones there.
Gordon's Gully was inaugurated for the first time.(Left Pic) As I recall Antje joined the walk at Salema, and rapidly got amongst the photos!(centre pic). Lunch among the rocks at Praia de Fornos. (Right pic)
The shot on the steps of the abandoned Quinta was well established (L). During our walk across the plateau between Ingrina and martinhal, we found a lot of mushrooms (centre), which were later cleaned and cooked by Lia as an extra starter for the dinner at Vila Velha in the evening.
The "Full English" in the sun-filled breakfast room at Pastelaria Baia was just the job to set us up for the second day's walk to Carrapateira. Ian Scott spoilt his perfect attendance record so far by dropping out on the grounds of unspecified pains and strains. Chris joined us for the second day, while Antje continued as far as Castelejo beach before going back to tend to the dogs - or so she said!
There were ten of us (including me with the camera) at Torre de Aspa (L) and we made the short detour to the coastguard house where the senior member addressed the troops with a rousing rallying speech! (C). I took the opportunity to take an arty shot of our silhouettes on the opposite side of a steep valley as we descended a ridge. (R)
The scenery on the west coast was staggering (as were some of the walkers) particularly in these perfect conditions. No problem with the tide or slippery descents this year!
And finally we arrived at Cafe Brava in Carrapateira to a rapturous welcome and a well earned beer or two. The sun was still shining, but we agreed that the last half of the walk was fairly tough for the second day in this direction. I seem to recall that it took us something over 7 hours each day, but the weather was a bonus and made it all much easier.
Just to finish, a few excellent photos - I think by Dinah - which demonstrate the views in the area and the clarity of the air.
It was Terry Ames who first floated the idea of a photo competition for the AWW Blog, and I thought that the RTC Walk would be a good place to give it a trial run.
As a result cameras were clicking throughout the two days (and one night) of the walk, and even the grumpiest joined in the spirit, and posed for the obligatory group shots. However it was the capturing of the offguard moment, or an unusual viewpoint we were after, and the subject was to be "Spirit of Round the Corner".
A total of 35 entries were received, but perhaps owing to communications difficulties, some entries were not really on theme. The independent judge was Alex Whittle, son of Chris and Antje, who is a professional photographer, and since his parents were not carrying a camera during the walk (excuse; 'Too much weight' !) he was deemed to be neutral. In any case I sent the photos via the Flickr site having removed any identifying tags or names of the entrants. The full field can be seen here .
After some discussion, Alex decided to award prizes in three categories, and one Overall Winner. The categories were:-
1. Human Interest
2. Landscape
3. Beer Shot
This last because there was a preponderance of photos of Ian S. and Beer!!
The judgement having been made, there was additionally an Honourable Mention awarded to Lindsey for her shot of Chris caked in mud, having just picked himself up after an unscheduled slip. Regrettably no-one had the presence of mind to snap him as he lay 'in flagrante delicto' in the puddle.
The Official Results can be viewed here. and of course you can enlarge the photos by clicking on them.
The prizes were presented at the AWW Xmas Walk and lunch held on 20th December 2006 at Patricia's in Montes de Cima. You can read all about that on the Algarve Wednesday Walkers Blog at http://aww2006.blogspot.com/
I must say that the standard of photography was very high, especially Dinah's photos, although she was limited to snapping at the beginning and end of each day, at the social soirées, and wherever she manged to catch us en route.
A good selection of photos actually taken by the walkers and en route are in the blogs below of the walk itself, but as I have recently been given some more of Dinah's photos, I will endeavour to upload them to a site for general viewing.
Amazingly the first day's walk and the depredations of the evening's festivities had not daunted our hardy band, all 17 (+ most of the WAGS - hope you enjoyed the lie-in Dinah!) presented front and centre, and some were even knocking on the shutters of Pastelaria Baia before 0700 hrs demanding their breakfasts. It has to be said that it was the most comprehensively organised and administratively recorded (by Myriam, of course) breakfast in living history. Suffice to say that all orders were filled, monies paid, change calculated and hungers satisfied, before we set off on our next stage. Marie-Josè and Emmanuel did us proud!
Here is the map and track for the second day. Click to enlarge several times until you get the magnifying glass pointer when you can zoom in and scroll at your leisure.
Despite having to wait until the light was reasonable for the Team Photo, we managed to get on the road by 0745 hrs. and were soon marching in line abreast across Praia de Martinhal in an eerie light.
Before long we had reached the grand deserted Quinta, where despite mutterings from some of the Grumpier Old Men we posed for the traditional staircase photo. Unbelievably, I had not taken the size of the steps into my calculations when I approved applications to the walk, and it was evident that in future we need to be at least four fewer (3 + photographer) for a more satisfactory composition.
We had quite a lot of ups and downs, (diligently counted by Antje and Ian W.) before the second slight navigational error of the walk! This time both the Route Consultant and the Leader were in agreement that the path leading to a V-shaped gully descending to an unknown beach, was correct, and probably only looked slightly different because of the recent rains. Wrong, and an interesting but arduous descent ensued, which had a couple of the short-wearing, thinner-skinned fraternity bleeding like stuck pigs. The adventure was generally welcomed, mainly with a sense of relief at personal survival, but when Rod wandered towards the coast he spotted the correct path snaking down from an almost identical V-shaped gully.
This inevitably delayed progress somewhat, and the Leaders fine Tide calculations were becoming marginal by the time we hit Salema for lunch. Being a caring leader, I allowed almost 20 minutes (for those at the front) for a coffee and a sandwich in Salema's finest café, but was a little hurt, whilst exhorting the band to get along the beach before we were swept away by the rapidly advancing tide, to hear Lindsey proclaim "Why aren't we allowed to finish our food?"
The reason was clear to me - to avoid the drag up through the town and along the road and behind the house that had blocked the cliff path overlooking the village. The shortcut involved an ascent of 'Gordon's Gully' which we had famously descended in 2005.
After this, there were various options to reach the cliff tops again. I had recced this the previous week, and was confident of a safe route to the top. However, photo duties precluded my being first up, and there were already signs of a rebellious element wanting to push on and be the first in the queue at the bar in Luz. I was in the last group, and
somehow we ended up rather lower than intended and the first 3 or 4 scrambled up a sandstone slope, dislodging rather a lot of crumbling stone. By the time the tail arrived to climb, it was decidedly dangerous. I managed to traverse across a narrow ledge to take up a suitable command position, but after I arrived I saw that Lindsey was in a bit of trouble, cliff-hugging rather than the tree-hugging she prefers. "Sound the Trumpet, Beat the Drums . See the Conquering Hero comes"
This emergency seriously brought some real heroes to the fore - Andrew, Terry M, and Ian Scott. Click to enlarge the photos above and you will see what I mean. Andrew (admittedly with a vested interest as Lindsey had the keys to the car) scrambled up and down several times to assist both Lindsey and Myriam, and practically dragged them up the slope while Terry and Ian risked slipping themselves to assist in the operation. It was with great relief that all concerned reached the top safely, and this route named "Andrew's Avalanche' is now struck from the WW list of Easy Seaside Strolls!
The next obstacle in our way was the Crossing of the Rapids at Boca de Rio. Swollen to a torrent by the recent rains, and not helped that our several delays described above, meant that the sea was trying to flood back inland, this crossing required specialist equipment or fearless removal of the boots.
Again (as if it needed further testing) it was proved conclusively that Lagos Camãra Bin Bags are not proof against river water, especially if the wearer's feet touch the bottom of the stream! In the photo on the right, Peter has his best UK 4-Season Scarpa Boots wedged by a rock, and the water is flowing unabated over the top. Antje - posing for this photo subsequently impeded the leader's progress across the stream resulting in severe Bin Bag failure and wet feet for the rest of the walk.
The last real climb of the day was up to the Forte de Almadena, where yet another pause was taken for a Team Photo on the wall with our starting point for the day in the background. At this point it was possible to discern a visible thirst for beer from some of the subjects.
The sky was beginning to turn grey again, some members of the group were admittedly tiring and others had a strong motive to reach the finishing line. By this time there was a certain reversion to type. One member was heard to remark:- Drinking without being thirsty and making love at any time, Madame, are the only things that distinguish us from other animals. The swift response was:- Dig the well before you are thirsty. which in case you did not know was a famous Chinese Proverb!!
Nevertheless, instead of marching in a triumphant phalanx, the group rather straggled in, but spirits were swiftly restored at the nearest hostelry. The stats for the second day were Total time 8 hours 30 minutes; walking time 6 hours 45 minutes, and distance 29.48 km.
Sitting here on 13th December, exactly one full week after we started, I realise that I got the dates wrong!! Today is brilliant sunshine and cool windless air. However that would have been too much like 2005, and the weather we had, though uncertain, was not too wet and uncomfortable, and added to the trial we had to overcome. Comments in general have been favourable, and I am sure there will be no shortage of volunteers should we decide to go again next year. The comments I have received so far I will publish in a series of posts above this, but please feel free to add anything further in the spaces provided.
December 6th 2006, and the "Happy Few" - well not so few this time - 17 in all - gathered outside the Cafe Bravo in Carrapateira for the Sixth Annual Round the Corner Walk. This was the first time we had such a large (and keen) group attempting the walk, and the logistics of getting us there together were enormous, and capably managed by the 'Bag Ladies'/'Angels of Mercy' / Walking Algarve - Support group (WAGS). Certain elements were rather camera shy at first (and later violently anti-paparazzi) and tried at all points to conceal their ruggedly handsome good looks from the camera(s). Despite this, the opening team photo had bits of everyone in it. I will attempt to identify from L-R:-
Andrew; Jim; Peter; Rod(rear); John; Ian W.(rear); Lindsey (front); David (middle); Terry M.; Gordon; Paul; Myriam; Ian S.; Antje; Chris;Terry A.; Mike.
The first day's task was to get to Sagres - first to Pastelaria Baia, then to The Navigator Hotel. Our track is below:-
We set off, having already been through a couple of heavy showers on the drive, with grey clouds looming and no small possibility of a very damp day. It was bright enough while the 'Ladies that did' were out of the cars!
After crossing the first beach, Praia de Amado, the sun did break through, and the views were magnificent!
After about the third or fourth climb, there was an unscheduled parting of the ways, as an enthusiastic 14/17ths of the group headed off while the Route Consultant was composing some prize winning pix for the Photo Competition. The R.C and his two cronies whispered after them, but were not heeded, and by the time our Brave leader had harnessed them, it was too late to turn back, so an innovative and technically difficult alternative route was forged through the cistus and up a near vertical slope! (How's that for spin!!) It did however mean that the breakaway faction led by the RC had to cool their heels (and other vulnerable body parts) for 45 minutes while the rest enjoyed their little 'off-road' adventure.
and we ended the first day's walk in a very respectable 7 hours 15 minutes total time (6hours 15 minutes walking) over a distance of 27.3 km. We repaired to the Pastelaria Baia where some appeared to enjoy the facilities rather excessively!!
Day 1:- The evening!
The Navigator Hotel has been refurbished this year and there was no shortage of hot water (except for masochistic Jim, who claimed that all 'real' athletes took cold showers after exertion), and nice warm rooms. At around 6 pm, we gradually assembled in the Pousada Bar for pre-prandial aperitifs. Zounds - I feel a literary moment coming on and shall continue the quote I started at the head of this piece:-
For he to-day that makes this walk with me
Shall be my brother; be he ne'er so vile, (you know who you are!)
This day shall gentle his condition;
And gentlemen in England now-a-bed
Shall think themselves accurs'd they were not here,
And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
That walked with us upon the RTC!
Appetites having been stimulated, the Walkers, WAGS and Invited Guests repaired to Vila Velha, where we were welcomed by a warm fire and the Lovely Lia, who was preparing our repast. We were to be a total of 27 for dinner with Hedley, Joy and Ginny making the supreme effort to eat without having exercised unduly.
For dinner we had a wonderful selection of tapas and home-made bread, followed by a tasty spicy tomato soup. Main courses were baked pescada (hake) and satay chicken, washed down with some reasonable Borba wines, and followed by chocolate mousse, almond cinnamon cake and coffee. It was generally agreed that it was a superb spread, and Lia was complimented by all. It is not recorded what the unfortunate other diners thought of our lively gathering.
Below a selection of 'happy diners'
Towards the end of the evening, a band of conspirators, no doubt led by the philanthropic Ian S. surprised Myriam and Paul with a presentation by Rod of a unique Porches Pottery Plate depicting the walk map, some kind words and an impressive Latin quotation designed to give the whole an aura of class and culture!
Also Lindsey was presented with some bottles of fine wine, procured from Wine Mine (plug) through the good offices of Rod, as a token of thanks for all the hard work she has done for the AWW as Secretary and Treasurer (Acting, Unpaid), although there were murmurings about the number of foreign holidays she and Andrew are managing to take since she started holding the funds!!)
And so to bed and in the manner of these Blogs, to access the exciting story of Day 2, you now have to scroll back up past the beginning of this blog to the major heading "Day 2- Sagres to Luz"
Recent Comments
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